updates on various things

1. The research:
I'm at the point of handing in my first/ revised versions of IRBs to 3 different ethics committees. However I just got an email that the hospital where I plan to do my study, Hospital Nacional Dos de Mayo (picture of Santa Rosa, the ID ward I'll be working in, at right), is partaking in a national doctor's strike. I'm not sure what this means, exactly, for me, but I will doubtless waste 3 hours going all the way there and back on tuesday for naught. In other news, I have managed to stump not 1 but 2 statisticians at the National Institutes of Health with pleas to help me with my sample size calculations. Despite our best efforts, no progress has been made. I think I may have to simplify and retool. One thing I have learned is that sample size precision is an illusion. If you calculate a number based on A, B, and C, where A-C are numbers you've had to make up out of thin air for lack of better data, what are the odds that your answer will be true? Are you a betting man?

2. The amazon trip.
Have just come back from a few beers at Juanito's with Colin and David Moore. Dr. Moore filled our head with hard-won wisdom from last year's race. Amongst the best: the support boat and the coast guard leave in the morning and you don't seem them till you arrive at the landing site at night (which is unmarked). there are no maps or signs . . . at various fork points, you will have to guess. Make a hard left and paddle upriver when you get to Iquitos because otherwise you will shoot right past and miss the city.

Very reassuring. However the summary feeling is that it will be: 1) total chaos, 2) total annhiliation by the local teams who have what we call "experience" making rafts, paddling them, and navigating the amazon, and 3) a lot of fun. Have I mentioned that the British contingent may be bringing someone tabloid-worthy? Odd, odd, odd. The good news is apparently there are few mosquitos on the Amazon itself, and the piranhas mostly stick to the tributaries, so my odds of getting eaten or catching malaria are low. Always a bonus.

Btw, Juanito's is a bar disguised as a bodega general store (see pic I found online). Best bar in Lima, so far. Many Limeños agree. I'll have to take pics. It's got beer and a few tapas and is so relaxed it's insane. I love it. We met a guy who David knew who is one of the LimaKids coaches, really excited for his 12 and under team to hopefully make tourney finals next weekend. Oh, and apparently he happens to be a successful businessman, but he's very charmingly worked up about this kid, who he is training to be a goalie, who takes it very hard when a goal is scored on him. Best bit: the dress code is, to be honest, sloppy. Any more and you are overdressed. Barranco (our hood) rocks.

There is an amazing culture, from what I can tell, of little bodegas all over the city serve as little bars/ gossip centers at night. All the men go to play cards, the women catch up there. Very multipurpose and very cool.

3. Spanish
Having learned my spanish the way that native speakers do when they are two years old, with zero formal training whatsoever, I have a freakish combination of a good accent, decent vocabulary, and random, startling gaps. For example, I just learned the alphabet three weeks ago. Who knew that the spanish did the "greek i" thing for "y" just like the french? I'm also looking for an intermediate level but well-written Spanish book to read. Any suggestions? And though I did get this suggestion many times, no, paulo coelho is brazilian, and did not write in Spanish. He's quite good, though, we can agree there.

Roger, over and out.

ps. if you have not yet donated to LimaKids and still want to, there is time! David said that he's been thrilled with the response. We haven't quite met the goal that we set, though, so please do contribute - even if you think it's very little it goes a long way here. These kids are orphans or living on the streetand for these kids the soccer team is the first time they are doing something "normal" kids do. Also LimaKids is working on a project to help overcome some of the obstacles to getting these kids healthcare, since many of these kids are undocumented and therefore can't access proper care . . . We (and they) really appreciate the support

muy amable

So peruvians might be the nicest people on earth. They really go out of their way to get you sorted. Oh, an example? Well, Catherine and I got on the wrong combi one day, coming back from surfing. It supposedly went to Barranco but really just cut tangentially through the edge. When we realized we were headed to Chile, we went to get off and about 4 people told us "No! . . . it's not safe here". One man adopted us, and had us get out with him at his stop in a safer place. Then, he waited with us and made sure we got on the right combi to get home. On the next combi the cobrador tried to overcharge because we looked gringita that day but the rest of the passengers argued with him and then he noticed Catherine's eyes, fell in love, and we were safe at the baseline 1 sole rate. Just a typical day . . .

But anytime I am lost or have a question, people don't just answer. They answer kindly, with patience, and they show an interest. They want to know where you are from, where you learned Spanish, how long you've been here. And they really care! It's super nice. I frequently have long conversations with my taxi drivers and learn about how their daughters are doing in school, and they learn all about me, and advise me to get a peruvian husband. This is your basic get to know you convo:
1. What country are you from? Do you like Peru?
2. How long have you been in Peru? How long are you staying?
3. Where are you living?
4. What are you doing here?
5. Are you married or single? How old are you?

and occasionally: do you cook or eat in the street (street food vendors)? this, only women ask.

Yup, basically this all goes down in about 3 min. It's just the vital stats they have to have in order to get to know you. I think soltera was one of the first 20 words I learned in Spanish

Today I went to Dos de Mayo to present my study to the ID docs there and get their input. On the way we got stuck in much-more-than-usual traffic. Turns out right at the park in front of the hospital there was a big street fair with lots of food being sold, a jumping castle, hats, wooden spoons, bootleg dvds, and a couple of monkeys doing tricks. After my presentation I sought out lunch. There was cuy (guinea pig), pork, lots of soup stews, breads, plantains, and other yumminess. I settled on the chicharon (fried pork rind) with potatoes and rice (i know mom, potatoes are considered a veg here) and sat next to these nice ladies. They helped me sort out the system (pay 1 guy for the food, another for the inca kola) and even had me try their dessert (some sweet brown slop made from a fruit i've never heard of before). After lunch we kissed goodbye and they wished me luck. So sweet, so kind.

Also Catherine has noticed (and she's right!) we have yet to see one single unhappy peruvian kid. No tantrums, no tears. I love Perú!

remind me to tell you more about inca kola later! also will try to bring my camera out more so you can share with me the sights (sorry can't share the yummy flavors).

we're gonna race down the amazon on a raft we build with our bare hands

Yup, you read that right. Catherine, Colin, Marjory and a yet to be named 4th are gonna race in the Amazon Raft Race 2008. We'll go to Iquitos, the biggest city in the world that you can't drive to (only plane or boat), build a raft out of balsawood logs, and then race down 132 miles of Amazon over 3 days. Colin thinks it'll look something like the picture below but since machetes , gloves, and a first aid kit are on the supply list it'll probably be less glam . . .

But here's where you come in: We are raising money for LimaKids, a very worthwhile organization devoted to helping street kids in Lima through activities including a street clinic and soccer league. We'll deduct the $150 entry fee from the donations (for materials, bus, tents, some meals), and the 4 of us will contribute our costs for airfare and hotel for the first and last night to the cause.

How do you sign up to be part of this madcap adventure? Two ways:


1. Click on the donate button. This will paypal it to us and we'll take it from there.

if that doesn't work try this:



2. If you're gonna donate a chunk of change and need a tax receipt, go straight to LimaKids. Just let us know please how much was donated so we can report back our total (we'll keep your anonymity if so desired).

If you want to see how it went for Mark, last year's fellow, check out his blog.